220 Clock


Why the "220 Clock" ? I started by milling four 1/8" wide x .050" deep arc at about a 2" radius. At the ends of the arcs, I drilled holes just large enough to insert the ground wire out of a piece of 220 Volt house wiring that I had in the basement. The other end of the wire was then fished through the hole at the opposite end of each arc and then pulled as tight as I could with a pair of pliers. 

Next comes the noisy part. With a ball peen hammer and a small anvil, I pounded the copper wire down into
the arcs. At each end, I had to persuade the wire to stretch out a bit so there were no gaps.

After making sufficient noise, I resurfaced the piece with a few quick, shallow passes and then spent a little
time in the sink with some wet/dry emery paper. It doesn't have to be perfect as the engine turning will just
scratch it all up again.

This is some engine turning I did on a bike part. A home made mandrel, a Scotchbrite pad, and a little oil.

After all the pounding and resurfacing, back it goes into the mill to cut out the pocket for the clock and
then cut the clock body from the bar.

Well, there's the body. Now for the base and mounting brackets.

After inlaying the copper and engine turning the base, the pocket is milled to accept the mounting bracket

... and a test fit for the brass mounting bracket. Like a glove

The base gets cut away from the aluminum bar

A little filing and some time with some wet/dry emery paper under the tap to clean up the edges is next.
And a bit of clear lacquer on the brass bracket to slow down the tarnishing hopefully.

Voila !

Updated: August 25, 2008