Rear Brake Lever Lube

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After reading about a sticky rear brake lever creating expensive problems to a rider's ABS braking system, I thought that I'd follow the various posts on the listserv and one of the FJR forums and do my bike as well. After disassembly it didn't look like my lever really needed the full treatment, but I figured that I may as well since I already had it apart. 

The idea is to install a grease nipple so that the assembly won't ever have to come apart again. In hindsight, disassembly only takes a few minutes so this is way overkill in my opinion.

Most of what is written and pictured here is not new and is not my original idea. But, after all of the other photo's and comments, I wanted to put it all in one place and maybe save others a bit of hunting and clicking.


First remove the bolt holding the brake lever; just loosening it isn't enough to remove the lever.

Then put an pair of index marks on the housing and the brake lever. Something simple like a Sharpie will make sure that you put the lever back on in the same position. I also used a punch just in case; those marks are more permanent. Not that I'll likely ever take this apart again.


Remove two socket head cap screws - shown here partially unscrewed, at top & bottom. This will allow you to remove the whole pedal assembly which makes the next step far easier.

Remove the cotter pin which allows removal of the pin connecting the brake master cylinder to the pedal

Remove the two springs. When I reassembled all of the above, I found that it was easier to leave the larger spring attached at the bottom and re-attach them at the upper hole. The light switch spring was so light that it didn't make any difference.

A bit fuzzy but you get the idea. Mine was actually not too bad. At 235,000 Km's, and still working just fine, I could have just cleaned it all up, greased it, and been good to go. You might just want do that and skip the rest of the story.

It seemed that the majority of people who did this procedure put the grease nipple on the inside end. To me, that made greasing it later more work than necessary and less likely to get done. Out of sight, out of mind.

I'm fortunate to have a lathe but this could just as easily be done with a vice and hand drill. The metal must be really cheap because it drilled out like swiss cheese.


Tap the outer end to suite you grease nipple. Mine is 1/8 NPT. The drill for this is about .325".  I have no idea how they came up with NPT sizes but there you have it.

Even though pipe threads are supposed to be self sealing, some people seal them with pipe dope or Teflon tape. I just used blue Loctite thread locker ( not sealer ).

Here's where I deviated from the other procedures that I read about.

I also drilled and tapped the inside end. I hope the FJR gods will forgive me but it was Sunday and I couldn't find a 12mm tap so this is .500".

Blocking the inside end is needed so the grease doesn't end up on the garage floor. This was also Locktite'd into place.


Drill the holes so the grease will move out of the center cavity and into the bracket where the shaft pivots. I through drilled these so there are matching holes on the other side for a total of six. I also beveled them which cleaned up the burrs from drilling. While it was all apart, I sanded the surface clean and smooth to give it more chance to move freely. 

Before reassembly, just in case the whole theory behind this was hogwash, I gave it all a good dose of of grease. ( Not shown here.)


While you have everything apart, you might as well put a dab of grease on that pin with the miserable little cotter pin.

And, when you reinstall this little mother, put it back in opposite to the way it came out - with the cotter pin on the outside. Not quite as pretty but way more practical.


All done.  Now, what about that shifter...?

 Updated May 12, 2013